| We were watching the news all day because we heard there was going to be a big demonstration and the news was reporting thousands of "riot police" and violence (although all they were showing was crowds). Supposedly the 'youth movement' were making demands and were supposedly going to make a big push. Essam wanted to go but I didn't like hearing about riot police and violence. But we kept getting calls from friends who were in Tahrir and saying it was so much fun there . . . the opposite of what we were hearing on tv . . . so off we went to see for ourselves. |
The bridge was blocked off by tanks and the military guy
above came up to me and told me I was not allowed to take
pictures (oops--had already got him--but told him 'o.k., no
pictures). There were long lines (more like crowds--Egyptians
are not good at forming 'lines'). At first I was not allowed in
because I was a "foreigner". Somehow Essam and I had
separated and he was at the other line entrance (there were
2). I told the army officer in Arabic that "my husband is
Egyptian and I live here" and I yelled over to Essam who
yelled back to the officer to confirm, so I was told to go over
and join my husband. They put up a fuss there, too, but it
seemed they were mostly concerned with 'photos' and
reporters sneaking in and my camera is tiny and was in my
back pocket so after giving me a look-over and not seeing any
camera they let me in.
Once "in" I was shocked at the festivity type feeling and
especally "capitalism" at its best. There were about a 100
different vendors. Shirts of all kinds, flags, headbands,
armbands, and all kinds of "Egypt" stuff. And of course "Face
Painting". We both got painted, Essam got a Pharaonic Beard
in the colors of the Egyptian flag.
above came up to me and told me I was not allowed to take
pictures (oops--had already got him--but told him 'o.k., no
pictures). There were long lines (more like crowds--Egyptians
are not good at forming 'lines'). At first I was not allowed in
because I was a "foreigner". Somehow Essam and I had
separated and he was at the other line entrance (there were
2). I told the army officer in Arabic that "my husband is
Egyptian and I live here" and I yelled over to Essam who
yelled back to the officer to confirm, so I was told to go over
and join my husband. They put up a fuss there, too, but it
seemed they were mostly concerned with 'photos' and
reporters sneaking in and my camera is tiny and was in my
back pocket so after giving me a look-over and not seeing any
camera they let me in.
Once "in" I was shocked at the festivity type feeling and
especally "capitalism" at its best. There were about a 100
different vendors. Shirts of all kinds, flags, headbands,
armbands, and all kinds of "Egypt" stuff. And of course "Face
Painting". We both got painted, Essam got a Pharaonic Beard
in the colors of the Egyptian flag.
Above and below: "lines" to cross the bridge and get in to Tahrir Square
There was a lot of the "below" going
on--a rare opportunity for boys and
girls to be together in private.
on--a rare opportunity for boys and
girls to be together in private.
There was a lot of chanting and singing going on but
unlike the other demonstrations (see the Pro-Mubarek
demonstration for details) this demonstration was 'fun'
singing and chanting. The little boy in the center of the
crowd in the picture on the left was playing a tabla
(drum). The crowd would yell out a rythm and chant
and he'd play it with his drum. He'd also play the drum
and we'd clap to it. It was FUN.
unlike the other demonstrations (see the Pro-Mubarek
demonstration for details) this demonstration was 'fun'
singing and chanting. The little boy in the center of the
crowd in the picture on the left was playing a tabla
(drum). The crowd would yell out a rythm and chant
and he'd play it with his drum. He'd also play the drum
and we'd clap to it. It was FUN.
Below: There was some serious anti-regime chanting--but
very little. Most of the crowd was there to enjoy themselves
or to have a look for themselves--first timers who up until
then had not ventured to Tahrir during a demonstration. And
who had no opinion about the situation, neither pro nor con.
very little. Most of the crowd was there to enjoy themselves
or to have a look for themselves--first timers who up until
then had not ventured to Tahrir during a demonstration. And
who had no opinion about the situation, neither pro nor con.
Below Right: Totally veiled women who came from the
countryside to have a look. They would not have been
allowed to go unless they were totally covered. The
countryside people are
countryside to have a look. They would not have been
allowed to go unless they were totally covered. The
countryside people are
Above: Like I said, not a big 'anti' thing going on, but I like this shot because the giant building
behind the stand is the "Mogamma"--where you get passports, visas, and all kinds of
licenses, etc--a 'government' employee building which during the day is normally jammed
with people and workers--all stopped now because of demonstrations.
behind the stand is the "Mogamma"--where you get passports, visas, and all kinds of
licenses, etc--a 'government' employee building which during the day is normally jammed
with people and workers--all stopped now because of demonstrations.
Right: It was a BIG day for horse
carriage drivers. Pretty much
the only way to get home if you
didn't want to walk. It took us
directly to the front door of our
apartment building. FUN!
carriage drivers. Pretty much
the only way to get home if you
didn't want to walk. It took us
directly to the front door of our
apartment building. FUN!
At one point Essam was determined to go to the grandstand and say some things. I won't get into what he was going to say, but I knew it would cause
trouble and I was scared. So I told him I'd stay right where I was (near a street lamp) and wouldn't budge until he came back. God, it was awful--he was
gone almost an hour. I figured they grabbed him and beat him or had the military come and take him away to jail. Meanwhile, I was chatted up by
everyone who walked by because I'm such an oddity and they wanted to know about me and my opinions, etc. I was constantly looking around for
Essam and was asked a lot what I was looking for and answered--my husband! When Essam finally came back (turns out they wouldn't let him talk and
he came back right away but went to the wrong lamp post and thought I was kidnapped), anyway, some kid who had talked to me figured out that he
was "the husband" I was waiting for and brought him over to me. He was so frightened that he was sort of angry too and went nuts for a minute (but
typical Egyptian stuff--the crowd calmed him down and everyone had a good laugh over it).
Below is some background stuff about before the Demonstration:
The "Armed Forces" text-ed anyone with a cell phone on Monday, Feb 21st, begging the Egyptian people not to demonstrate on Tuesday (there was a
demonstration planned for the 22nd). They said they were working hard to make the free elections happen when promised but needed to use their
'forces' for other things besides Tahrir. They also pointed out that schools have been closed for a month due to demonstrations and that people needed
to go back to work so they could survive. They said Friday is the best day for demonstrations because most people have the day off.
It is still amazing to me to get these text messages from the "Armed Forces". Weird.
Most people do want to get back to normal and appreciate these messages. The 'youth movement' consists mostly of unemployed university students
who don't have families to care for and don't fully realize how they are disabling people and the economy. With the schools closed, many working
mothers can't go to work, and with demonstrations mid-week, its really hard to get anywhere with Tahrir blocked. The bridges are closed and half the
city can't get anywhere, let alone to work. Friday's are still rough. Yes, many have the day off, but a lot of shop keepers and markets are open after
Friday prayers, especially at certain enormous outdoor shopping areas downtown. Fridays have always been their biggest day of sales because people
are off work and go out clothes and food shopping. Friday is when families also get out and about and go to parks, the zoo, or just visit each other, etc.
With these constant demonstrations it has sort of put the city at a standstill and Egypt is losing tons and tons of money—millions. The Pyramids and the
Egyptian museum finally opened this week, but no one came. It was eerie. Hundreds of Nile cruise ships are just docked—all of the people who were
employed in the many various jobs related to cruises are out of work. All of the downtown 5-star hotels are closed when normally they are packed with
tourists, and on Fridays, people who want a meal at a 5-star restaurant--now can't. The restaurants are closed and the employees are laid off.
Also, without a 'government' people some people are taking advantage. Last year the government started a new taxi program where people could buy a
brand new car—a white taxi ready and complete with a meter--at 0% interest, just a monthly low affordable payment, but they had to sign a contract that
stated that they keep the meters working and never pull any tricks. The usual taxi drivers take advantage of tourists and ex-pats living here so this was
a very good system for all—both the unemployed who participated and were able to buy a taxi and earn money, and the foreigners didn't get ripped off.
The meters are set at the going prices, about the exact same price as a regular taxi charges, so there was no harm done to the regular taxi's. When you
take the regular black and whites you just have to 'know' what it costs—hence why foreigners always got ripped off. After living here for a while I "know"
the prices. But when you don't know, they take advantage and charge outrageous prices. Anyway, these white taxi's are a really good thing. It gave
employment and was great for tourism. Now these taxi's are turning off the meter, covering the meter, or removing the meter, and even painting the
white car half black to confuse people. My husband got really ticked off the other day when one driver took a look at me and figured he could charge us
50 LE for a 5 LE trip. (people are complaining about corruption—but anyone here who can do it—will).
One other quick example of corruption country-wide (Khadafi mentioned drugs and the media blew it off as madman talk, but its rampant in the middle
east and especially in Egypt) boys start smoking pot and hash at an early age and other drugs, too, but even lawyers, judges, policemen and regular folk
not only smoke hash but the big thing here is pain killers. You can go to any pharmacy and offer to pay them money (bribe them) and they'll sell you
pain killers (valium and any other thing you want without a prescription). Almost everyone male I know is addicted to pain killers of some sort. And they
get it through "corruption". I'm sick of hearing people condemning corruption when everyone does it. Even the market people. Many middle class
shop keepers are deep into corruption—not just the wealthy ones. If they can do it—they do.
Below is just a funny thing that happened the other day but reminded me of the good humor most Egyptians have (maybe its the hash):
Everyone loves the military, but at some point the police are going to have to be re-established. They are needed. Right now though, the police are still
somewhat in hiding and hated. The military has had to step in and be 'traffic cops'. They have not been trained to do it so the traffic jams are hilarious.
So a few of the busy intersections have the military standing around doing nothing and one poor policeman to direct traffic when usually there's one
main guy in the middle of the intersection making decisions and giving signals and 2 policeman on each of the four parts of the intersection to halt traffic
and wave on the other direction, etc. Pretty hard for one dude to do the job of 8 guys. I was waiting to cross the street and saw a funny situation. A
carload of young kids ignored the traffic cop and flew through the intersection when the traffic cop walked in front of their car and waved them to stop.
The cop had already waved the other cars to move so there was a massive collision. The young kids jumped out and almost attacked the cop and the
group of military dudes who were just standing around started moving towards the situation when the cop said to the kids "We all want change and
democracy here, I want change, too, I'm with you, but even in a democracy you are going to have to obey the traffic laws". Lots of people had gotten out
of their cars and there was lots of foot traffic. Everybody around laughed at his comment and things went back to normal. (but it was a close call—if the
cop hadn't said it in a humorous laughing way—I think the kids were going to punch him). Personally, I miss having all the police at the various
intersections and strategic spots. It made me feel safe.
trouble and I was scared. So I told him I'd stay right where I was (near a street lamp) and wouldn't budge until he came back. God, it was awful--he was
gone almost an hour. I figured they grabbed him and beat him or had the military come and take him away to jail. Meanwhile, I was chatted up by
everyone who walked by because I'm such an oddity and they wanted to know about me and my opinions, etc. I was constantly looking around for
Essam and was asked a lot what I was looking for and answered--my husband! When Essam finally came back (turns out they wouldn't let him talk and
he came back right away but went to the wrong lamp post and thought I was kidnapped), anyway, some kid who had talked to me figured out that he
was "the husband" I was waiting for and brought him over to me. He was so frightened that he was sort of angry too and went nuts for a minute (but
typical Egyptian stuff--the crowd calmed him down and everyone had a good laugh over it).
Below is some background stuff about before the Demonstration:
The "Armed Forces" text-ed anyone with a cell phone on Monday, Feb 21st, begging the Egyptian people not to demonstrate on Tuesday (there was a
demonstration planned for the 22nd). They said they were working hard to make the free elections happen when promised but needed to use their
'forces' for other things besides Tahrir. They also pointed out that schools have been closed for a month due to demonstrations and that people needed
to go back to work so they could survive. They said Friday is the best day for demonstrations because most people have the day off.
It is still amazing to me to get these text messages from the "Armed Forces". Weird.
Most people do want to get back to normal and appreciate these messages. The 'youth movement' consists mostly of unemployed university students
who don't have families to care for and don't fully realize how they are disabling people and the economy. With the schools closed, many working
mothers can't go to work, and with demonstrations mid-week, its really hard to get anywhere with Tahrir blocked. The bridges are closed and half the
city can't get anywhere, let alone to work. Friday's are still rough. Yes, many have the day off, but a lot of shop keepers and markets are open after
Friday prayers, especially at certain enormous outdoor shopping areas downtown. Fridays have always been their biggest day of sales because people
are off work and go out clothes and food shopping. Friday is when families also get out and about and go to parks, the zoo, or just visit each other, etc.
With these constant demonstrations it has sort of put the city at a standstill and Egypt is losing tons and tons of money—millions. The Pyramids and the
Egyptian museum finally opened this week, but no one came. It was eerie. Hundreds of Nile cruise ships are just docked—all of the people who were
employed in the many various jobs related to cruises are out of work. All of the downtown 5-star hotels are closed when normally they are packed with
tourists, and on Fridays, people who want a meal at a 5-star restaurant--now can't. The restaurants are closed and the employees are laid off.
Also, without a 'government' people some people are taking advantage. Last year the government started a new taxi program where people could buy a
brand new car—a white taxi ready and complete with a meter--at 0% interest, just a monthly low affordable payment, but they had to sign a contract that
stated that they keep the meters working and never pull any tricks. The usual taxi drivers take advantage of tourists and ex-pats living here so this was
a very good system for all—both the unemployed who participated and were able to buy a taxi and earn money, and the foreigners didn't get ripped off.
The meters are set at the going prices, about the exact same price as a regular taxi charges, so there was no harm done to the regular taxi's. When you
take the regular black and whites you just have to 'know' what it costs—hence why foreigners always got ripped off. After living here for a while I "know"
the prices. But when you don't know, they take advantage and charge outrageous prices. Anyway, these white taxi's are a really good thing. It gave
employment and was great for tourism. Now these taxi's are turning off the meter, covering the meter, or removing the meter, and even painting the
white car half black to confuse people. My husband got really ticked off the other day when one driver took a look at me and figured he could charge us
50 LE for a 5 LE trip. (people are complaining about corruption—but anyone here who can do it—will).
One other quick example of corruption country-wide (Khadafi mentioned drugs and the media blew it off as madman talk, but its rampant in the middle
east and especially in Egypt) boys start smoking pot and hash at an early age and other drugs, too, but even lawyers, judges, policemen and regular folk
not only smoke hash but the big thing here is pain killers. You can go to any pharmacy and offer to pay them money (bribe them) and they'll sell you
pain killers (valium and any other thing you want without a prescription). Almost everyone male I know is addicted to pain killers of some sort. And they
get it through "corruption". I'm sick of hearing people condemning corruption when everyone does it. Even the market people. Many middle class
shop keepers are deep into corruption—not just the wealthy ones. If they can do it—they do.
Below is just a funny thing that happened the other day but reminded me of the good humor most Egyptians have (maybe its the hash):
Everyone loves the military, but at some point the police are going to have to be re-established. They are needed. Right now though, the police are still
somewhat in hiding and hated. The military has had to step in and be 'traffic cops'. They have not been trained to do it so the traffic jams are hilarious.
So a few of the busy intersections have the military standing around doing nothing and one poor policeman to direct traffic when usually there's one
main guy in the middle of the intersection making decisions and giving signals and 2 policeman on each of the four parts of the intersection to halt traffic
and wave on the other direction, etc. Pretty hard for one dude to do the job of 8 guys. I was waiting to cross the street and saw a funny situation. A
carload of young kids ignored the traffic cop and flew through the intersection when the traffic cop walked in front of their car and waved them to stop.
The cop had already waved the other cars to move so there was a massive collision. The young kids jumped out and almost attacked the cop and the
group of military dudes who were just standing around started moving towards the situation when the cop said to the kids "We all want change and
democracy here, I want change, too, I'm with you, but even in a democracy you are going to have to obey the traffic laws". Lots of people had gotten out
of their cars and there was lots of foot traffic. Everybody around laughed at his comment and things went back to normal. (but it was a close call—if the
cop hadn't said it in a humorous laughing way—I think the kids were going to punch him). Personally, I miss having all the police at the various
intersections and strategic spots. It made me feel safe.
veiling their women more
these days. If you can't
quite make them out, they
are the 2 'black blobs'
holding the baby in the air.
these days. If you can't
quite make them out, they
are the 2 'black blobs'
holding the baby in the air.